10 1/2 hours later we arrived to Tulear or Toliara. Again we rode in the front with the chainsmoking driver. Though long and tiring, most of the trip was scenic. Hues of green terraced rice plots in shallow water surrounded by huge sandstone canyons and boulders gave way to yellow and brown grasslands and acacia trees. The drier arid land reminded us of our Swazi home in winter. Then a strange mix of savannah and an occasional lone palm gave way to cactus trees. The trip is completely at the mercy of the driver who makes it once a day. He decides when and how long we stop. Cigarette breaks featured prominately. By 7 we were starving and tried our luck with street food: samoosas, potato lahtkas, bananas and boiled cassava. Hopefully we won't be sick tomorrow; street food can be dangerously delicious.
There were also many police and military checkpoints, where the driver for undiscovered reasons slipped the officer some bills, and without hassle we were waved through to continue the journey. 16 times.
At one point it looked like houses were on fire in the distance as huge black smoke curled up into the sky. As we got closer, curiously the smoke became black dots, which turned out to be swarms of locusts. We hurriedly rolled our window up as the driver stuck his arm out the window trying to catch some.
The driver's playlist kept us laughing. Maybe delirious from exhaustion or finding comfort in familiarity, we enjoyed the music from the 80s and the reggae remix to "you are my sunshine" and Shania Twain's "Man, I feel like a woman". I am pretty sure we were the only ones who understood the lyrics, until it switched over to Malagasy, which the driver belted out the tunes.
Tonight's sky is beautiful. The stars are shining brightly in the dark sky.
Yebo Babe and Make,
ReplyDeleteReading your blog has been rather emotional for me. Leaving Swaziland and readjusting to life here in NYC has been very challenging for David and I. None of us will ever be the same after life in Siteki.
Your travels sound full on and I long to be along with you. Especially on those bus rides, well not really. But the street food and new sights and sounds and sensations sound amazing. Take it all in and enjoy. Remember that all is the same back here so there is no big rush to return.
David and I are spending our weekends visiting friends at their beach, country and out of town homes. Most of it has been good and most often leads us to discussions on how and when we will take off for lands unknown. Fire Island remains an amazing oasis for us. It is a small strip of land that runs parallel to Long Island. There are no cars or buses and where we stay in The Pines there are long board walks, wild deer and miles of beach. It is really fantastic and it soothes our weary souls. We toasted your departure from Swaziland on Fire Island with a cocktail and many well wishes while viewing the sunset from the roof of where we stay.
Please travel safely, know that we miss you madly! NYC awaits your return and David and I as well with open arms.
Much Love,
Scott