Agra

Crossing from Delhi into Uttar Pradesh state, we had to stop at the
border for the driver to show papers. A transgender individual (we
were told later but guessed first) dressed in a flashy turquoise sari
with an eight o'clock shadow approached the Nepalese driver, Bhuwan,
asking for money. We were surprised when he handed over some rupees.
Bhuwan told us that people believe the trangendered persons have the
power to curse or bless you, and that he threatened a car wreck if he
didn't give money. Bhuwan made it sound as if this is a common
exchange and normal to give money. After this interaction the car
wouldn't start. We can only assume that this aforementioned individual
did not receive adequate payment. So, after being pushed by men
dragging along trick monkeys on leashes, beating the battery with a
stick (literally), and long discussions between the monkey men,
driver, and passers-by, the car started and we were off. It is now
clear to us that on the road between Delhi and Agra there is a worm-
hole to an alternate reality.

We made it to Agra midday and walked around and in the white-marbled
Taj Mahal. Most visitors were Indian. It started to rain at one
point and everyone ran for cover. Some yelled and laughed as they
ran. We first sought shelter under a tree. Then we joined a line of
people flat against a red sandstone wall under a small awning.

The Taj Mahal story adds to its romantism and beauty. Absolutely
worth seeing. At the Taj we were approached way too many times by
people asking to take our picture. Usually we said no. But the
little kids and sometimes women were harder to say no to than than the
boys in tight jeans and aviator glasses. One girl kissed Kristin for
a picture. We continually had to move around to avoid being
bombarded. One tourist totally lost it, and she reamed a guy out
using a string of explatives. After that, a groundsmen hit the guy
over the head. We have been stared at here (even for prolonged
periods of time without shame) more than any other country we have
been to.

We tried some delicous traditional Indian sweets tonight. One has an
edible foil covering that is made from pounded silver.

Leaving for Rajasthan tomorrow.