Tuesday, August 3, 2010

Krakow

Sunday night we arrived to Krakow. Our hostel is in a great location in the heart of the old town in the Rynek Glowny, a huge medieval market square. Summer months mean the square is full of outdoor seating, musicians (from a quartet of accordians to a a flute-guitar- drum combo) and entertainers (most notably a flame-thrower). The lights reflected beautifully against the walls of buildings around the square.

Monday morning we strolled around the grounds of a hilltop castle overlooking a river. The medieval Wavel Castle was the residence of kings and queens for over 5 centuries and is surrounded by walls and complete with a tower and dragon's lair, which supposedly housed the
legendary fire-breathing Wavel dragon (Smok not Puff). We also toured the Wavel Cathedral with it's Gothic spires, built in 1364, and full tombs and chapels.

After wandering around the old town (there are many piano statues in various squares), we made our way to the Jewish quarter, Kazimierz, which at one point was a center of Jewish culture in Poland, and still holds an annual Jewish festival. Almost overnight during a mass deportation the past cultural vibrancy disappeared. Today the population is small. We saw the old synagogue, which is he oldest Jewish house of worship in Poland from the 15th century. Much of Shindler's List was filmed here. Then we explored Podgorze, where thousands of Jews were herded. It became a Jewish ghetto. There is a memorial to he victims at Plac Bohaterow Getta, located a the departure point for trains to various camps. The open square has empty chairs throughout representing discarded possessions and remnants of deportees. It is impossible to not feel a weight in your chest while standing in the plaza. Then we walked to Shindler's Factory, which is being made into a museum. This previous enamelware factory was where the German Oskar Schindler employed thousands of Jewish prisoners, saving many lives.

Today we go to see Auschwitz.

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