Modern Istanbul, Ramadan Celebrations and a Hamam

We are getting caught up on updates. Free wifi has been difficult to
find in Cairo.

So... This is about our last two days in Istanbul.

There was a fascinating (and free) exhibit near the Aya Sofya. It
opened our eyes to the Muslim peoples' contributions to modern
science, math, astronomy, and virtually all others areas. Not only
did it give a sense of hope and inspiration but also showed us how
much we didn't learn in school. Huge contributions to modern surgery
and timekeeping, for instance, came from the Ottoman Empire during the
(not so) "Dark Ages.". It was really interesting.

Then we visited the Grand Bazaar which was more like a mall. But
nearly 700 years old! We expected something more like the chaos of
the medinas in Morocco. We were on our guard for hassling, but got
none. There was even a sign warning people not to hassle tourists.
It is gigantic with over 4000 shops and 66 connecting streets selling
Turkish carpets, jewelry, ceramics, leathers, sweets, and much much
more.

We also visited modern Istanbul in the district of Beyoglu. We napped
in the breezy tree-lined Taksim Park then walked down the popular
Istiklal Caddesi, which is basically an outdoor mall with many
recognizable Western stores intermixed with Turkish restaurants and
the occasional Turkish shop. We saw Whole Foods grocery bags for
sale, the ones that say, "the better bag" on the side. A lost
shipping container maybe? Off the main street we found many
fashionable boutiques filled with Turkish designed clothing and
jewelry. Creative and energetic young people are everywhere.

The next day we took the cheap ferry across the Bosphorous to Asia.
Still in Istanbul though. The view from the ferry was very nice with
barges and other ferries criss-crossing with the city as the
backdrop. The Asian side brings less tourists (and less English) but
we enjoyed walking around.

After we went to the spice market which was full of all the Turkish
delight and bahklava we could ever eat, peaks of colorful spices, and
Turkish decor. We then crossed the Galata bridge, passing lines of men
fishing in the Bosporous. This bridge connects the old city to the
modern.

Ramadan has been great time to visit allowing us to observe
behaviors. There have been many outdoor concerts of beautiful
Turkish instrumental music and random western favorites including a
strange rendition of Summer Lovin' from Grease. Families gather in
the parks to picnic, bringing bags of homemade kabobs and drinks ready
for Iftar. Restaurants have been busy preparing for the feast, and
every surface is covered with ready-to-eat plates. People sit
languidly at the table not touching their bread. We try to hide in
the park and eat dinner before sundown not wanting to make their wait
even more difficult. Then the call echos from various minarets around
the city and eating commences. Smiles reappear. Life returns to the
streets. Musicians throw down their instruments and run for food.
Celebrations continue late into the night. The area feels very
carnivalesque, with a man walking on stilts through crowds, whirling
dervish performances (we saw a man spin for over two minutes
continuously, pause for about 45 seconds, and start again), stands of
calligraphy painters, weavers, glass-blowing, and more, and lots of
sweets (popcorn, ice cream, cotton candy). We tried a delicious soft
lollipop that the man makes and swirls right in front of you.

The last night in Istanbul Kristin tried the Hamam experience - a
Turkish bath. It was a women only hamam. So here is her story:

I was taken down some steps to a room with individual changing rooms.
Then woman attendant whistled and motioned with her hands that I
should remove everything and wrap a towel around me. Then she took me
to the bath room. It was a rectangular room with gray marble flooring
and a large raised marble square in the middle. There were six low
marble sinks spaced three on each side of the square. The sink was my
basin. (I had thought a basin meant a bathtub and was caught off-guard
when I realized I would be bathing in the nude not partly hiding in a
tub, because as you probably know, I am modest). So, she pulled off
my towel and told me to sit next to the basin/sink. It was constanlty
running warm water. I was told to douse myself with the water for ten
minutes, then she would be back for the massage. I was the only one
in there and started to think maybe it'd be a little more interesting
if someone else was in there. Before I knew it, the woman came back
in only in white undies followed by three tourists in bikinis. What?
She told me to get naked! Now I wished I could escape the
awkwardness. Being alone wasn't so bad. As the others found their
sinks and starting dousing themselves (in their bathing suits), she
caught my attention and patted the marble slab indicating it was time
for my massage up on the slab in the middle of the room. I tried to
appear fine with being the only naked one in the room as I briskly
walked to the middle. She puts on a scrubbing mitt, and following her
broken commands, I laid on my stomach, then back, then sat up to be
wholly exfoliated. Then back to the basin for a rinse. Now soap and
massage. The scene repeats, only this time instead of a mitt, it's a
huge soapy loofah. I am covered in suds and get a little massage.
Turning over is a challenge because soap and marble are a slippery
combination. It ended with her shutting her eyes tight to indicate
that I should follow. As soon as my eyes were shut, the huge loofah
was exfoliating my face almost too well. Then a bucket of water
rinsed enough soap off for me to make my way back to my sink and
finish the rinse. Then she comes and sits behind me for a shampoo.
At this point, though very awkward, I am feeling very nice and clean.
Then a rinse and off to the sauna before the final cool-off rinse. I
am clean and refreshed. It was a totally awkward though great
experience.